Visit Villefranche, the Jewel of the French Riviera
Beautiful Villefranche-sur-Mer ... my home away from home
My first experience of actually staying in France was when I studied French at the Institut de Français in Villefranche, in October, 2013. My 53rd birthday treat to myself. I had an absolutely marvellous, month-long immersion French language experience, high on the hillside above the harbour, in beautiful Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Before that, I had visited France a few times, but I'd never stayed more than a few days. Always passing through, but never a ‘local’ – even for just a while. I yearned for that sense of belonging because I knew that was what my Francophile heart desired. To practice my French language skills, journey alone to France, and relax for long enough to truly 'experience' slow travel in France.
The Institut de Francais came highly recommended. I had just settled the sale of a house in my home town so now seemed as good a time as any.
I can't remember how I actually came across Villefranche as a venue or place to stay. But once I discovered it, I knew it was the place for me. With an international airport just 25 minutes away (I'm from Australia), situated on the wonderful French Riviera, and with close links to Nice (and Italy not far away), I was decided.
THIS DECISION CHANGED THE TRAJECTORY OF MY LIFE, MOVING FORWARD
A TASTE OF PROVENCE
A FREE SLOW-TRAVEL INTRODUCTION TO PROVENCE
On this occasion, I had a beautiful self-contained apartment
Staying in the heart of Villefranche-sur-Mer, for a whole month
The prospect of staying in Villefranche for 4 weeks, learning French all day, relaxing at sidewalk bistros, and eating at fabulous restaurants, was very tempting indeed. Imagine, touring local villages like La Turbie, Antibes, Saint-Paul-de-Vence, and Tourrettes-sur-Loup, and drinking French wine!
Plenty of time to explore the French Riviera and fall in love with the language. To slow down and really get to know the beautiful, historic village and its people. To experience the opportunity, appreciate the location, walk along the Promenade des Marinières, and swim in the blissful Mediterranean Sea. Heaven!
I imagined languishing on the beach at Beaulieu sur Mer, visiting Villa Kerylos, or swanning around like a Baroness at the Villa Ephrussi. Perhaps catch the bus along the spectacular Moyenne Corniche to Èze, before the shops open and the tourists got there.
To live like a Frenchwoman, however briefly, and become truly connected with this place that forever has my heart
I am in heaven in Villefranche-sur-Mer
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Mes amis, this post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to book or purchase through one of them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Bien sûr, I only ever recommend places, stays, products and experiences that I genuinely believe are worth considering.
Take a short stroll down from the Boulevard Napoléan III
(which is where you would arrive should you catch a bus from Nice) and you are into le vieux village
Discover quiet walkways, hidden streets, and ancient houses with old shutters and chalky paint. Painted in yellows, oranges, and pinks, they are like an imagined Mediterranean sunset dream.
Further towards the harbour, restaurants of all styles line les petites rues. Although the old village itself is not large, it is a gastronomic delight.
Villefranche has an ancient tale, with the Rue Obscure (the 'hidden street') built along the first ramparts of the harbour and dating back to 1260. It was built to protect the villagers from bombardment, but also came to be very useful for storing wine - bien sûr! It's an interesting walk underneath and behind some of the village buildings and restaurants, quite unique and rich in atmosphere.
It's worth locating, although not always obvious. And when you do, make sure you walk along it all the way to the far eastern end ... it definitely feels quite mysterious along there ...
At the water's edge, Villefranche Harbour is breathtaking
Luxury yachts float alongside simple local boats and fine restaurants line the wide promenade with tables on the water's edge
The occasional sportscar shares the Quai de l'Amiral Courbet with happy visitors and locals. With a vista around the bay to the Villa Rothschild towards Villa Kerylos and beyond, this is spectacular coastline.
With one of the deepest harbours in the Mediterranean, many accommodation venues have views of the bay or the township. The area is truly breathtaking. The cruise ships come in here, and the passengers disembark and delight in this village that captures hearts - including my own.
Discover charming architecture, worn shutters, wrought-ironwork, and colour everywhere. A few shops, weekly brocante and food markets, and a terrific variety of beautiful restaurants and bistros makes relaxing for a week (or a month) in this place an absolute joy!
My absoute favourite place to stay is the Welcome Hotel, right on the waterfront. Many of the rooms and suites have balconies with utterly spectacular views of Cap Ferrat and the Mediterranean laid out before you. Plus, my all-time favourite treat is breakfast at the hotel right on the quayside, or an aperitif as the evening closes on another beautiful day in paradise.
Where to eat in Villefranche-sur-Mer
There are plenty of places to eat around the harbour and old town, but these are three I think are particularly worth knowing about.
Mayssa Beach is my absolute favourite. Set above the harbour with a wonderful panoramic terrace overlooking the rade, it’s somewhere I return to for both the food and that extraordinary view. The menu is Mediterranean, with grilled fish and meat among the specialities, and it works equally well for lunch, dinner or a special occasion. I’d recommend booking, particularly if you’d like a table with a view. 9 Place Wilson, Villefranche-sur-Mer · +33 4 93 01 75 08 or Visit their website.
Les Garçons is tucked into the old town on Rue du Poilu and has a rather different atmosphere — more intimate and lively, with French cooking and a setting that feels very much part of old Villefranche. It’s particularly good if you’d prefer to wander away from the waterfront for dinner. 18 Rue du Poilu, Villefranche-sur-Mer · +33 4 93 76 62 40 and Les Garçons
La Mère Germaine is something of a Villefranche institution. Opened in 1938, it sits directly on Quai Courbet overlooking the water and specialises in refined Mediterranean cooking, particularly fish and seafood. This is the one I’d consider for a more traditional Riviera lunch or a special dinner right beside the harbour. 7 Quai de l’Amiral Courbet, Villefranche-sur-Mer · +33 4 93 01 71 39 or visit their website here.
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Villefranche-sur-Mer is a marvellous spot from which to explore the marvellous French Riviera
It's a one-stop, unpack-your-bags-and-relax style of destination
Enjoy day trips to beautiful locations as well as some beautiful walking tours of the area. Picture lazy brocante Sundays, or simply time-out to eat, read, relax, and feel like a local.
And while you’re here, consider taking an immersion course at the Institut de Francais, and really learn the language. I can highly recommend it for so many reasons. I truly feel that my grasp of the language continues to grow, years on from that one month of study. It was the best gift I ever gave myself, and I certainly plan to do it again one day.
Try to find a hotel or apartment with a view, because - well - what a view! There aren't many hotels in the village, so if you want to stay - for example - at the Welcome Hotel, book ahead!
Some of my favourites include:
As I mentioned, The Welcome Hotel is my favourite place to stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer. Right on the waterfront, it puts you right amongst some of the village’s best restaurants, the old town and the harbour. The hotel has been part of Villefranche since the early 18th century and has welcomed everyone from Jean Cocteau to Winston Churchill, but what I love most is its position: you can step outside and immediately feel part of village life, with the Mediterranean quite literally on your doorstep.
This fully renovated apartment looks like a fabulous choice for a longer stay in Villefranche-sur-Mer. Just a two-minute walk from Plage des Marinières, it offers sea views, two bedrooms, a terrace and plenty of space to settle in properly. With air-conditioning, a fully equipped kitchen, washing machine and free WiFi, it combines the comfort of home with one of the best locations in the village.
Seagulls is a spacious three-bedroom apartment in an exceptional waterfront position in Villefranche-sur-Mer. The décor is a little more traditional than some of the other properties I’ve chosen, but the location is hard to beat, with harbour views, a terrace or balcony, and easy access to the beach, restaurants and village life. With three bathrooms, air-conditioning and a fully equipped kitchen, it could be a particularly good choice for families or friends travelling together.
Hôtel Carlton is a lovely option if you don’t mind staying just outside Villefranche-sur-Mer, in neighbouring Beaulieu-sur-Mer. It’s only a short walk from the beach, train station and bus stops, with an outdoor pool, air-conditioned rooms and easy access to the coast between Nice and Monaco. It could be a very convenient choice if you’d like to explore Villefranche while enjoying a slightly quieter base nearby. Plus it's closer to Villa Kerylos and Villa Rothschild so it's a very elegant option...
Villefranche-sur-Mer is located in the first bay east of Nice
It’s the ideal location for savouring this special part of the world, and for discovering the French Riviera
Èze, Monaco, and Italy lie a short distance to the east, with Nice, Antibes, Juan les Pins, Cannes and beyond to the west.
To get to Villefranche-sur-Mer from Nice, take the TER train or the ZOU! 600 bus towards Monaco and Menton. The train is the quickest option, taking around five minutes, and Villefranche-sur-Mer station sits just above Plage des Marinières, only a short walk from the old town. If you prefer the bus, line 600 — which replaced the old number 100 — stops at Octroi in Villefranche-sur-Mer. From there, it’s an easy downhill walk into the old town and harbour. Bus journey times vary with traffic, so I recommend checking the current ZOU! timetable before you travel.
If you'd rather drive, some of the beautiful hotels (such as The Welcome Hotel) provide valet parking, otherwise there are a few parking lots around the village available to you. Consider hiring a car if you'd like to explore the fabulous coastline around you (and up in the hills behind the village).
If you'd really like a thrill, book a Ferrari to come and pick you up in Villefranche and take you for an utterly fabulous drive along the Moyenne Corniche. Experience Monaco’s legendary Grand Prix circuit as a VIP and visit Èze along the Riviera’s most scenic road. This drive is an experience you will never forget!
Slow travel guides, photography and thoughtfully chosen French-inspired finds.
Slow travel guides, photography and thoughtfully chosen French-inspired finds.
Slow travel guides, photography and thoughtfully chosen French-inspired finds.
Slow travel guides, photography and thoughtfully chosen French-inspired finds.
Take a couple of minutes to enjoy this little video
The music from the fabulous Baby et Lulu ... my favourite French chanteuses. Actually, they're Australian, and do a terrific job of all the songs on their album. I love nothing more than to wind the windows down on my car whilst I'm out for a drive, with the music way up and trying, at least, to sing along in French!
What's your favourite French music? Leave me a YouTube link in the comments if you have one, and/or let me know what you thought of your experience in beautiful Villefranche.
Merveilleux!
Learn French with a course designed to make the language come alive. Whether for travel or just for fun, immerse yourself in French culture from anywhere in the world
Learn French with a course designed to make the language come alive. Whether for travel or just for fun, immerse yourself in French culture from anywhere in the world
Learn French with a course designed to make the language come alive. Whether for travel or just for fun, immerse yourself in French culture from anywhere in the world
Add my name as well.
Done, thanks Marybeth :)
So glad I stumbled onto your blog! I am bringing my daughter (19 years old) to the French Riviera, and while I was initially looking at Nice as my base of operations, I have decided to stay in Villefranche. We absolutely plan to visit some of the other towns in the area, including Menton, Eze, Antibes, St. Paul de Vence and maybe Grasse (and of course, Nice!). How easy is it to get to towns to the west of Villefranche? I believe it’s a straight line on the train to Menton, but what’s the best way to get to the other towns? Would I need to go through Nice each time? (By the way, we will be there in mid-late August, which I know is the height of the season). Thanks so much!
Hi Marianne, thanks for getting in touch. Travelling along the Riviera by train is a great way to see some places. Menton and Antibes are actually along the train line, but you would need to catch a bus to visit St Paul de Vence and Grasse. A great site is Rome2Rio.com where you will get lots up-to-date information about the best ways to travel. I have a girlfriend over there at the moment and she said it was surprisingly easy to match the trains with the relevant buses.
You are going to love Villefranche. It’s much more quiet down on the harbour with plenty of restaurants to choose from. It’s the perfect base if you don’t want to be flat out like you would be in Nice or even Menton. Have a great time!
Bonjour Louise.
I have a friend who lives part time in Villefranche-sur-mer. I am interested in learning about the region. I found you on the ‘All things French’ website. Is it possible that you can add me to your mailing list? If it is not for me, I will unsubscribe.
Merci mille fois,
Paul
Bonjour Paul, how lovely that you have a friend living on the Riviera for some of the time. I would be happy to add you to my email list and it’s perfectly fine if you unsubscribe. Wishing you a wonderful day.
Hello from Phoenix Arizona. My name is Norma Ross, 71 years young. Very interested in your upcoming trip to France. I like your lifestyle,,,luxe but real life!!! That’s me. Please keep me on your email list for updates. Thank you so much !!!
Bonjur Norma, thanks for your comment. I’m very happy to add you to my list but I’m not sure if it’s because you are just interested in beloved France or whether you have seen a reference somewhere on my website about the Tour I used to run? I’m afraid I don’t run Tours anymore as my dear Papa is very aged now and I can’t guarantee to be available if he needs me. But I’ll happily put you on my list and you can unsubscibe if it’s not what you were imagining. X
I love this blog post on Villafranche-sur-Mer. When I passed via train on the way to Menton years ago, I decided to stop at Villafranche and have a swim before getting back to Nice. One of the most beautiful places to have a swim :-) and might visit soon again… It’s a great idea to study French at the institute! x
Bonjour Marie, thank you for your kind comments. You certainly would enjoy staying in Villefranche if you get the chance. The Hotel Provencale (up between the harbour and the Moyenne Corniche, 4 minutes walk from the village), is quite affordable compared to other accommodation venues in the region. Bonne chance!
Salut Louise,
Please add me to your mailing list, I am loving your website and all the information. Would love to know more about the tours you will be offering.
Merci!
Lynn
Bonjour Lynn, thanks for getting in touch and for your kind comments about my website. I will certainly add you to my email list but must advise you that, for the time being at least, I am unsure as to when my next Tour will be as my father is very aged and frail. I couldn’t commit to taking ladies overseas whilst he is in this stage of his life, but I will let you know as soon as I am able to proceed further :) Merci.
Louise…I too found you through your tiny house video. I am semi-retired and it is on my bucket list to spend quality time in the South of France. One of my favorite memories is a trip to Nice 15 years ago and I want to explore more of the region. So, please sign me up for your newsletter or announcements regarding upcoming adventures!
Bonjour Kathleen
Thank you for getting in touch. I am a little behind this year because my Tour Operator let me down at the last moment, so I am in the throes of organising a new one. My next Tour will be to Provence rather than the Riviera. I have added your name to my mailing list and will be in touch as soon as I have more information. Merci, Louise. X
Hi Louise, I have just watched your tiny home video and I am very impressed, you are an inspiration. I too would love to go on your newsletter list please. I have been looking at going to France & Piedmont Italy for awhile now. I also live not very far from you in Sawtell. Hope to hear from you soon. Take care. Glenda
Bonjour Glenda, sorry it took so long to reply, I have been in la belle France. We should get together one day for a catch-up. Does that interest you? I’ll email you so that we can communicate privately. Louise XX
I have applied for your next painting holiday but unfortunately not had a reply but just another advert asking me to apply.
Bonjour Jean, I am sorry but I don’t offer painting holidays so I’m not sure whose site you are conneting to :)
I would be very interested in joining your next adventure! ???? And found you via your tiny home video; very interested in that too ????
Bonjour Trudi
Thanks so much for getting in touch. I have added you to my email list for Tour information as it comes to hand. I’m glad you found the Tiny House video helpful…I just love living here. Louise. XX
Ditto…..I found you via YouTube tiny house. Very open to learning about your tours for 2024
Bonjour Anthea, I’m so glad you found me via YouTube! I have added you to my mailing list and will let you know as soon as my dates are settled.
Hi,
Please add me to your mailing list.
Bonjour Dawn…done! Merci a vous. X
Im interested in hearing more about a trip to France
Thanks Barbara, I’m currently working with a new Tour operator to develop an updated post-covid Tour. I’ll let you know more as soon as I am able to. :)
Sign me up please
Terrific, it looks like you signed up. Thanks Ginny. XX
I’d love to receive the newsletter
Wonderful Cyndi, I’ll pop you into my list XX
Lovely music, thanks Katya :)
Just returned from my annual French Riviera visit- among other month long travels in Europe. Enjoying your video.
How wonderful, J. Christina. Yes, the video was a bit of fun on my iPhone, I think, with iMovie. Amazing what you can do with a phone :)