Living in a French Château in the Vallée d’Ossau
How I ended up in a French château in a village with more sheep than people
A guest post by Trish Jasinski, owner of the lovely and unusual Château de Gère
It’s funny how sometimes a little thing can lead to a big change. For me, it was a friend casually mentioning that I could buy a château for the price I sold my Parisian apartment. The first little prompt towards my love affair with the Château de Gère.
It was 2020 and during COVID confinement, I decided to sell my small apartment in the 9th arrondissement of Paris. I had been living in the city for over a decade and while I had a great run, I was ready for someplace a bit quieter and greener. To my surprise, I received a full price offer fairly quickly and planned to move to the suburbs, until the idea of a château was planted.
A milestone birthday and an unexpected road trip
At the same time, my 50th birthday was approaching. I had climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro for my 40th so I intended to do something big for 50. But travel restrictions at the time limited my options. And just when I thought this milestone birthday would be a bust, I was having virtual cocktails with a friend and by the end of the conversation (and a few glasses of wine), I was going on a road trip to southwest France to go château shopping.
Mes amis, this post may contain affiliate links. If you choose to book or purchase through one of them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. Bien sûr, I only ever recommend places, stays, products and experiences that I genuinely believe are worth considering.
My first impressions of the Château de Gère
I rented an apartment for a week and made a few appointments to view châteaux in the area
I wasn’t very familiar with the southwest region, but had been doing parts of the Compostelle in France for a few years with friends and knew that Navarrenx was one of the upcoming stops on the trail.
One of the agents mentioned that there was another château similar to the one he was showing me just down the road, if I was interested in viewing it. He said it was the same era but more modern than his listing, so I wasn't sure I would be interested, but I was already here, so why not? As we entered the gates and drove along the driveway, I was surprised to see that it was an old stone fortress – it didn’t look modern at all!
But I still needed to see the inside ...
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The Château de Gère was love at first sight
I had only been half serious about buying a château and really didn’t think through what I would do with it
We entered and walked up the stone staircase, that apparently was part of the original structure when it was built in 1388. Inside was an open living, dining and kitchen area – all surrounded in stone – with a spiral staircase in the middle that went up two more floors. It was love at first sight and I made an offer a few hours later.
I was still working a corporate job in Paris so the plan was to rent an apartment in the suburbs and use this as a holiday home, perhaps also doing seasonal rentals.
But then another little thing happened that resulted in a big change – the bank did the loan as a primary residence, meaning I had to live there for at least 8 months of the year. Luckily, I had a job where I could easily work remotely and with COVID still disrupting life as we knew it, I didn’t know when or if we’d be going back to the office. So, I gave up my rental, packed up and moved to the château.
Falling for the Vallée d’Ossau, where there's more sheep than people!
The château is situated at the foot of the southwest Pyrénées mountains in the beautiful Vallée d’Ossau. Despite having done quite a bit of travelling in France, I didn’t know this area at all but quickly realised it’s a hidden gem! Between all the mountain sports, including hiking, cycling, skiing and canyoning as well as the rich culture and history, all the charming little villages and gorgeous views in every direction, and of course the amazing cuisine, it has something for everyone!
The Vallée d’Ossau is probably best known for its cheese, particularly Ossau-Iraty brebis (made from sheep’s milk). There are many brebis cheese producers in the area, including my neighbours, who have over 400 sheep. And since our village, Gère Bélésten, has less than 200 habitants, there are literally more sheep than people.
A warm welcome from my neigbours in the Vallee d’Ossau
I'm so delighted by the journey towards discovering my beautful Château de Gère
Since buying the château almost 5 years ago, I’ve left my corporate job and started a business hosting small group retreats, getaways and events at the château. I love welcoming guests to introduce them to my favourite things to see, do and taste in and around the Vallée d’Ossau. And it has been a great way to meet other business owners in the area and support my local community.
I really feel like I hit the jackpot in finding my château in the little village of Gère-Bélesten surrounded by the beautiful Vallée d’Ossau and meeting so many lovely people. I’m grateful for having the opportunity and courage to take a chance on making this change, which all started as an offhand comment about buying a French château.
Mes amis, this post may include affiliate links. I might even earn a small commission (at no extra cost to you) if you purchase something through one of my links. Bien sûr, I only recommend things that I absolutely *love.
If you're ever in the southwest of France, the Château de Gère makes a truly memorable place to stay
The region is full of natural beauty
If you're ever in the southwest of France, the Château de Gère makes a truly memorable place to stay. Set at the foot of the Pyrénées in the Vallée d’Ossau, this 14th-century château has been beautifully restored and now hosts a variety of retreats, getaways, and small private events.
With four guest bedrooms, a lovely balance of history and modern comfort, and home-cooked meals using local produce, it’s a wonderful spot for those looking to slow down and soak up the French countryside.
Dotted with small villages, the Vallée d’Ossau is ideal for hiking, cycling, skiing in winter, or simply exploring the Ossau valley’s culture, cuisine and artisan traditions.
To find out more or make a booking, visit chateaudegere.com or contact Trish here.
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