Villefranche-sur-Mer ... my home away from home
My first experience of actually staying in France was when I studied French at the Institut de Français in Villefranche, in October, 2013. My 53rd birthday treat to myself. I had an absolutely marvellous, month-long immersion French language experience, high on the hillside above the harbour in beautiful Villefranche-sur-Mer.
Before that, I had visited France only twice, but I'd never stayed more than a few days. Always passing through, but never a ‘local’ – even for just a while. I yearned for that sense of belonging because I knew that was what my Francophile heart desired. To practice my French language skills and journey alone to France. The Institut came highly recommended.
I can't remember how I actually came across Villefranche as a venue or place to stay. But once I discovered it, I knew it was the place for me. With an international airport just 25 minutes away (I'm from Australia), situated on the wonderful French Riviera, and with close links to Monaco and Italy not far away, I was decided.
On this occasion, I had a beautiful self-contained apartment in the heart of Villefranche-sur-Mer for One. Whole. Month. Oh, bliss!
The prospect of staying in Villefranche for 4 weeks+, learning French all day, relaxing at sidewalk bistros, and eating at fabulous retaurants, was very tempting. Imagine, touring local villages like La Turbie, Antibes, Saint-Paul-de-Vence and Tourrettes-sur-Loup, and drinking French wine! Plenty of time to explore the French Riviera and fall in love with the language. To get to know the beautiful, historic village and its people. Experience the opportunity to appreciate the location, walk along the Promenade des Marinières, and swim in the beloved Mediterranean Sea. Heaven!
I imagined languishing on the beach at Beaulieu sur Mer, visit Villa Kerylos, or swanning around like a Baroness at the Villa Ephrussi. Perhaps catch the bus along the spectacular Moyenne Corniche to Eze, before the shops open and the tourists got there.
Perfection ...
To live like a Frenchwoman, however briefly, and become truly connected with this place that forever has my heart. I am in heaven in Villefranche-sur-Mer.
A short stroll down from the Boulevard Napoléan III (which is where you would arrive should you catch a bus from Nice) and you are into le vieux village. Discover quiet walkways, hidden streets, and ancient houses with old shutters and chalky paint. Painted in yellows, oranges, and pinks, they are like an imagined Mediterranean sunset dream.
Further towards the harbour, restaurants of all styles line les petites rues. Although the old village itself is not large, it is a gastronomique delight.
Villefranche has an ancient tale, with the Rue Obscure (the 'hidden street') built along the first ramparts of the harbour and dating back to 1260. It was designed to protect the villagers from bombardment, but also came to be very useful for storing wine - bien sûr! It's an interesting walk underneath and behind some of the village buildings and restaurants, quite unique and rich in atmosphere.
At the water's edge, Villefranche Harbour is breathtaking.
Luxury yachts float alongside simple local boats and fine restaurants line the wide promenade with tables on the water's edge. The occasional sportscar shares the Quai de l'Amiral Courbet with happy visitors and locals. With a vista around the bay to the Villa Rothschild and Villa Kerylos and beyond, this is a spectacular coastline.
With one of the deepest harbours in the Mediterranean, many accommodation venues have views of the bay or the township. The area is truly breathtaking. The cruise ships come in here, and the passengers disembark and delight in this village that captures hearts - including my own.
If you have the resources, the Welcome Hotel is right on the waterfront. Many of the rooms and suites have balconies with spectacular views of Cap Ferrat and the Mediterranean laid out before you.
Sublime ...
Discover charming architecture, worn shutters, wrought-ironwork, and colour everywhere. A few shops, weekly brocante and food markets, and a terrific variety of beautiful restaurants and bistros makes relaxing for a week (or a month) in this place an absolute joy!
Villefranche-sur-Mer is a marvellous spot from which to explore the marvellous French Riviera.
It's is a one-stop, unpack-your-bags-and-relax style of destination, with outbound day trips to beautiful locations. Plus, local site visits to Villa Kerylos and Villa Rothschild add to the local attractions, as well as some beautiful walking tours of the area. Picture lazy brocante Sundays, or simply time-out to eat, read, relax, and feel like a local.
And while you’re here, consider taking an immersion course at the Instituit de Francais, and really learn the language. I can highly recommend it for so many reasons. I truly feel that my grasp of the language continues to grow, years on from that one month of study. It was the best gift I ever gave myself, and I certainly plan to do it again one day.
Villefranche-sur-Mer is located in the first bay east of Nice. It’s the ideal location for savouring this special part of the world, and for discovering the French Riviera. Eze, Monaco, and Italy lie a short distance to the east, with Nice, Antibes, Juan les Pins, Cannes and beyond to the west.
Parfait ...
To get to Villefranche-sur-Mer, take the train from Nice, or take bus 100, or 81. The train takes about 5 minutes, and the bus takes about 15 minutes. The railway station is located above the beach and it takes about 5 minutes to walk into the old town from there. The bus arrives on the Blvd Napolean lll and it's a downhill walk to the old town from there.
Be prepared to climb – either up or down. This is hillside country, down to the water.
Be prepared by packing light if you can ... they don't call it lugg-age for no reason! And you'll really feel the weight of it in the old village.
Take a couple of minutes to enjoy this little video
The music from the fabulous Baby et Lulu ... my favourite French chanteuses. Actually, they're Australian, and do a terrific job of all the songs on their album. I love nothing more than to wind the windows down on my car whilst I'm out for a drive, with the music way up and trying, at least, to sing along in French!
Merveilleux!
What's your favourite French music? Leave me a YouTube link in the comments if you have one, and/or let me know what you thought of your experience in beautiful Villefranche.
Comments 30
Bonjour Louise.
I have a friend who lives part time in Villefranche-sur-mer. I am interested in learning about the region. I found you on the ‘All things French’ website. Is it possible that you can add me to your mailing list? If it is not for me, I will unsubscribe.
Merci mille fois,
Paul
Author
Bonjour Paul, how lovely that you have a friend living on the Riviera for some of the time. I would be happy to add you to my email list and it’s perfectly fine if you unsubscribe. Wishing you a wonderful day.
Hello from Phoenix Arizona. My name is Norma Ross, 71 years young. Very interested in your upcoming trip to France. I like your lifestyle,,,luxe but real life!!! That’s me. Please keep me on your email list for updates. Thank you so much !!!
Author
Bonjur Norma, thanks for your comment. I’m very happy to add you to my list but I’m not sure if it’s because you are just interested in beloved France or whether you have seen a reference somewhere on my website about the Tour I used to run? I’m afraid I don’t run Tours anymore as my dear Papa is very aged now and I can’t guarantee to be available if he needs me. But I’ll happily put you on my list and you can unsubscibe if it’s not what you were imagining. X
I love this blog post on Villafranche-sur-Mer. When I passed via train on the way to Menton years ago, I decided to stop at Villafranche and have a swim before getting back to Nice. One of the most beautiful places to have a swim 🙂 and might visit soon again… It’s a great idea to study French at the institute! x
Author
Bonjour Marie, thank you for your kind comments. You certainly would enjoy staying in Villefranche if you get the chance. The Hotel Provencale (up between the harbour and the Moyenne Corniche, 4 minutes walk from the village), is quite affordable compared to other accommodation venues in the region. Bonne chance!
Salut Louise,
Please add me to your mailing list, I am loving your website and all the information. Would love to know more about the tours you will be offering.
Merci!
Lynn
Author
Bonjour Lynn, thanks for getting in touch and for your kind comments about my website. I will certainly add you to my email list but must advise you that, for the time being at least, I am unsure as to when my next Tour will be as my father is very aged and frail. I couldn’t commit to taking ladies overseas whilst he is in this stage of his life, but I will let you know as soon as I am able to proceed further 🙂 Merci.
Louise…I too found you through your tiny house video. I am semi-retired and it is on my bucket list to spend quality time in the South of France. One of my favorite memories is a trip to Nice 15 years ago and I want to explore more of the region. So, please sign me up for your newsletter or announcements regarding upcoming adventures!
Author
Bonjour Kathleen
Thank you for getting in touch. I am a little behind this year because my Tour Operator let me down at the last moment, so I am in the throes of organising a new one. My next Tour will be to Provence rather than the Riviera. I have added your name to my mailing list and will be in touch as soon as I have more information. Merci, Louise. X
Hi Louise, I have just watched your tiny home video and I am very impressed, you are an inspiration. I too would love to go on your newsletter list please. I have been looking at going to France & Piedmont Italy for awhile now. I also live not very far from you in Sawtell. Hope to hear from you soon. Take care. Glenda
Author
Bonjour Glenda, sorry it took so long to reply, I have been in la belle France. We should get together one day for a catch-up. Does that interest you? I’ll email you so that we can communicate privately. Louise XX
I have applied for your next painting holiday but unfortunately not had a reply but just another advert asking me to apply.
Author
Bonjour Jean, I am sorry but I don’t offer painting holidays so I’m not sure whose site you are conneting to 🙂
I would be very interested in joining your next adventure! ???? And found you via your tiny home video; very interested in that too ????
Author
Bonjour Trudi
Thanks so much for getting in touch. I have added you to my email list for Tour information as it comes to hand. I’m glad you found the Tiny House video helpful…I just love living here. Louise. XX
Ditto…..I found you via YouTube tiny house. Very open to learning about your tours for 2024
Author
Bonjour Anthea, I’m so glad you found me via YouTube! I have added you to my mailing list and will let you know as soon as my dates are settled.
Hi,
Please add me to your mailing list.
Author
Bonjour Dawn…done! Merci a vous. X
Im interested in hearing more about a trip to France
Author
Thanks Barbara, I’m currently working with a new Tour operator to develop an updated post-covid Tour. I’ll let you know more as soon as I am able to. 🙂
Sign me up please
Author
Terrific, it looks like you signed up. Thanks Ginny. XX
I’d love to receive the newsletter
Author
Wonderful Cyndi, I’ll pop you into my list XX
My favourite is still: Zaz
https://youtu.be/0TFNGRYMz1U
Author
Lovely music, thanks Katya 🙂
Just returned from my annual French Riviera visit- among other month long travels in Europe. Enjoying your video.
Author
How wonderful, J. Christina. Yes, the video was a bit of fun on my iPhone, I think, with iMovie. Amazing what you can do with a phone 🙂