Imagine, one whole month on the Côte d’Azur!
One of my most memorable visits to France was in 2013, when I experienced one whole month of full French-language immersion training at the Institut de Français in one of the most fabulous locations on the French Riviera.
I studied at the school in Villefranche-sur-Mer. A true bucket-list dream. I had started a savings plan because I‘d actually been envisioning this for 3 years. My 53rd birthday gift to myself. A 4-week, total immersion, French language course, on the fabulous Côte d’Azur, 20 minutes from Nice International airport. Bliss!
To me, French is the most beautiful language in the world
Before I went, I dug up and polished off my high school French, practiced my best accent (which I always try to do anyway), watched even more French movies on DVD’s (that’s how it was back then) and then set off on a trip of a lifetime.
Whenever I think about why I am so obsessed with France, when there are so many other beautiful places in the world, I realise that a very large part of it is my love of this language.
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Of course, it has been romanticised by Hollywood to represent passion, love, and mystique
I just love the way that I feel when I utter the words, when I form the sentences, when I *sound* French
I distinctly remember my 15-year-old self having an short – but definitely flirtatious! - conversation with a young French man in Paris on my first visit there. I clearly remember that I didn’t need to translate what he was saying into English in my head, or for my response from English back into French. It was seamless ... and it was a truly marvellous feeling! The Institut de Français is situated high upon the hill above Villefranche with panoramic views over the Mediterranean Sea. The quality of teaching is superb, the food surprisingly good, the staff fabulous, and the accommodation – should you book it through the school - is lovely, and very affordable for the area.
So, what is it like?
On arrival day, you'll be welcomed, your questions will be seamlessly addressed, then you will partake in various short tests
Don't be alarmed. They are relaxed and exist to assess your level only. Then, a short interview with one of the lecturers where you’ll feel supported. Incredible views and a tasty lunch will help you to feel encouraged.
I remember being so anxious. I don’t recall being good at any of the tests. I'm an over-achiever. I remember that I fumbled badly over the oral test.
I felt so lost for words. It was a cartoon. I was so grateful that there were things I could talk about in every frame. A bed, a boy doing something, and a clock. My recollection of high-school French went seriously blank.
Before the end of the day, you’ll be assigned a class. Somehow, they got me into a perfect class for *me - just right for my level
You can relax. The team at the Institut de Français are experts
You truly begin the next day. NOTE: from the moment the introduction begins, not one word of English is spoken on school grounds, ever, not even during breaks
Each day you'll have breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, and classes throughout the day. From memory, a couple of dinners and a day tour to St Paul de Vence and beautiful Tourrettes-sur-Loup is included. You'll have one teacher and regular mixed classes on various topics of interest. Most lessons occur in classroom, plus EVERY day in the audio lab (just like high school!). Jump in here and exercise you brain. Just do it!
Plus, there’s a gathering every morning before breakfast, in the main Lounge, French news. I tried a few, but the presenters speak very fast. I suppose they are useful but I don't do news at home, so I didn't want to do it on the holiday of my lifetime! Plus, it’s not compulsory. Yay!
The meals are really quite good, so dinner was often very simple at home. Hallelujah, there is a shop called Picard’s on the Moyenne Corniche (you'll pass by it on the way down to the village) that sells the *most extraordinary* range of frozen foods ... Truly. Fine for me because, although I’m a good cook, I don’t spend a lot of time doing it, and hopefully less time cleaning up after it.
There's also a supermarché, patisserie, and various speciality shops nearby
Dining out is a real pleasure, bien sûr, because there many restaurants in Villefranche-sur-Mer which offer endless chances to eat remarkably well and also to socialise with the locals. There are several fine dining restaurants down by the harbour, but plenty of less-expensive, and equally wonderful, choices in the village itself.
For the school, you don't need any special gear. From memory they give you an exercise book but bring your favourite pen you like. I took my iPad and that came in very handy for the short presentation you will be required to do at the end of the month.
Consider booking your accommodation through the school if you can - it's much more affordable that way
It's likely to be fairly simple, but perfectly adequate. If you prefer something more upmarket, check out other accommodation options.
Bring some lightweight cardigans and comfortable walking shoes. It's hill country, whichever way you look at it. But the French aren't keen on runners in restaurants - something more chic in a shoe - but still casual - is fine. If you are interested, check out my post about Travelling Around the World with an Onboard Bag.
On evenings and weekends, you'll want meet up with new friends to explore the sights. Visit Villa Rothschild or Villa Kerylos, both within walking distance of Villefranche. I went for dinner in Italy one night (bring your passport!) and there will be heaps of other adventurous things to do.
Perhaps just relax on the beach ...
When I took the course, we took a day out to visit Vence and Tourrettes-sur-Loup which I absolutely loved! I couldn't believe how magical and quiet this village was, just 30 minutes from the bustling French Riviera. I also recommend a day trip to Eze for SURE, possibly Antibes in the morning and Juan les Pins in the afternoon (next to each other), and of course, Nice if you're a shopper...a bit crowded for me!
And seriously, be prepared to walk up and down the hill. Seriously. Up and down hills. Every day. Or have lots of money *and be able to charm a Taxi Driver into a €7 fare and to give up his position in the queue. Unlikely.
Or, of course, Uber is all the rage nowadays ... I took 2 Ubers last time I was there and had the best conversations with the drivers ... all in French bien sûr! Merveilleux!
If you are thinking of going, good luck on your adventures, you're going to LOVE this for the rest of your life! I'm going to try and go again in the future. It’s already been 9 years. Way too long ...
I’m proud to say that I graduated with the Certificat Mention Très Bien, the highest award.
One day, I pledge, I will return. XX
Comments 14
Bonjour Louise, my best friend and I made a plan to go and study at the Institut 10 years ago. We decided we’d wait until all our kids had finished school. My youngest daughter graduated from high school last year so we booked ourselves in to go in August this year (2025) and were so excited that our long-time plan was finally drawing near.
Then, out of the blue in November, my beautiful friend was diagnosed with an aggressive brain tumour. She passed away within only 5 weeks of her diagnosis. It’s totally devastating. Before she died, she took both my hands in hers and made me look into her eyes and promise to still go to France, even though she could no longer come. So I’m still planning to go but will now be alone.
Did you also go solo or did you have friends there too? I’m hoping I’ll meet new people and be able to make friends. Was that your experience too?
Though I’ll be sad, I am looking forward to actually getting there. I’ll be there for both of us.
Sarah x
Author
Dear Sarah, I am so sorry to hear about your friend and the end of your dream to travel to France together. I can’t imagine how that must have been for you and, of course, your dear friend.
I’m glad that she encouraged you to continue with your passion for the French language and promise to travel to France to the Institut.
I went alone (as have a couple of my girlfriends) and it is, indeed, an ideal environment to meet like-minded Francophiles whilst improving your French. You won’t have any trouble meeting new folks and having some great social experiences, as well as developing your understanding of the French language.
You will certainly experience some moments of sadness but also, I believe, some moments of real joy as you think about your beloved friend from the balcony of the Instituit in the south of France.
Bonnes vacances.
Thank you so much for your perspective on the Institute! I am heading there for the month of May 2025..hoping desperately to improve! I have spent 32 summers (August) in the Ile de RE and my French friends have been soooo accommodating of my pathetic French. It’s been so embarrassing. I love your post about traveling with just a carry on. I am on board for that! Totally. Just wanted to say hi and THANK YOU!! xoxo LINDA
Author
Bonjour Linda, I’m so glad that you found this post useful and motivating. I thoroughly enjoyed my time at the Instituit. That’s not to say it is always easy … it is very much a serious learning institution, but they have been operating for some 60 years now and certainly will assist you in becoming more confident in your language development. Let me know how it goes!
Bonjour! I’ve just enjoyed a few of your articles and came across this. I attended this school, as well, 25 years ago! It was exactly as you describe it. I was traveling to Paris from the states often for work and was able to dedicate a month there. Thank you for reminding me how special it was! Now I’ll read all your articles as I am looking to retire somewhere in the South of France in the next year or so!
Merci,
Pia
Author
Bonjour Pia, thanks for your lovely feedback. I’m so glad you enjoyed the article and the others you have read. Be sure to look out for more in the not-too-distant future. I’m focussing more on writing now. Merci, Louise. X
Hi! I would like to know information about the course. How much is it for example? Thanks.
Author
Bonjour Gabriela, my blog post is *about the course, I don’t run a language course myself. If you want more information about the Instituit de Francais, check out their website at https://www.institutdefrancais.com. XX
Bonjour! Je serai en Villefranche sur mer dans un semaine et je voudrais avoir une classe de conversation informelle, ça est possible?
Marisa
Author
Bonjour Marisa
I don’t personally offer French conversation lessons, but if you contact Patricia at French Riviera Ex PAT Services she will most likely be able to help you. Patricia is BRILLIANT at discovering your level, helping develop your comfort at that level, and challenging you a bit more. Overall a wonderful experience!
Bonjour Marisa,
I’m French , I live in Nice and I teach French with a difference examples : walk and talk in Nice, coffee mornings, visit of the Château where Coco Chanel stayed in the 20s, perfume creation etc….to practise the language and discover the culture.
Tks
P.
Author
Bonjour Patricia, thanks for jumping in.
Marisa, this is the lady I mentioned and she is FABULOUS! Do get in touch with her – you’ll love spending time with her!
I studied at the Institute 15-20 years ago and am thinking of returning.
Please email requisites at this time.
thank you, Lynda Martin
Author
Bonjour Lynda, I am not connected to the Instituit at all, I just wrote this blog post about my experiences. You’d best contact them directly at the Instituit de Francais. Bonne journee. X